Retired, widower and starting into sailing with a 31 year old Precision 15 footer. Seems like everything I look at means more to fix. So far it's all trailer repair. Hopefully within a week I'll have that straightened out and will be up to the boat.
Any suggestions or advice on old PBW 15' would be appreciated, thanks. Papaw
Welcome Papaw! You've made a great choice for a starter boat. Trailer repair is fairly straightforward, as they all (mostly) use the same parts, just different shapes and sizes. The same can be said for sailboats in many cases. What are you seeing on the boat itself that needs repair?
Quote from: Riggerdood on Jul 26, 2024, 10:11 PMWelcome Papaw! You've made a great choice for a starter boat. Trailer repair is fairly straightforward, as they all (mostly) use the same parts, just different shapes and sizes. The same can be said for sailboats in many cases. What are you seeing on the boat itself that needs repair?
Right now, I have all ready purchased 150' 5/8 Low Stretch Line ( Main Halyard and Sheet, Jib Halyard) and 100' 1/4 Low Stretch ( Jib Sheets and Boom Vang) to replace lines. At first glance the stainless steel Forward Stay and Both Shrouds, along with all of the SS Fixtures, looks to be in good shape.
I will be taking the rudder apart to examine the wood. I have no idea how to examine the centerboard while on the trailer.
When I went to buy this boat, I took cardboard and a flashlight so I could go under the trailer and examine the hull. No holes, abrasions, cracks or rough spots. For $1900 I at least wanted it to float. Also, I asked the Broker to have the mast and sails up when I got there for examination, and he did. The Fiberglass looks clean, no holes/ rips/ repairs to the sails (polyester, not canvas). The aluminum mast and boom appear to be in good condition.
Once I get the trailer straitened out,I'll move the boat from the driveway to the backyard where I'll have overhead space to raise the mast and get into it a little closer.
I hope you meant 3/8" line and not 5/8" line for the halyards. I'm not sure your blocks will take 5/8" line. Standard rigging specs for the 19ft Mariner:
- halyards: 1/4" line
- sheets: 5/16" line (midboom sheeting, 3/8" line for Crosby rig (main sheet has triangle at transom)
- downhauls and outhauls: 3/16" line
- I have 1/4" line on my 3:1 boom vang, I may need 4:1. The v-slot with 3:1 kept slipping. The size of the main on the Mariner and the length of the boom makes the vang critical. The long boom on the Mariner can easily catch on the backstay during a jibe if the main is not decently vanged. A great way for an unexpected entry into the water.
I have cam cleats on the main and jib sheets (2), and topping lift. I just installed cam cleats on boom vang, and Tiller Clutch (2). The rest are normal cleats - halyards (2), boom downhaul, clew outhaul, cunningham, tack reef line, clew reef line. Have not needed a cleat on the jib downhaul, but definitely needed a downhaul.
Fred W
Stuart Mariner 19 #4133
Yeopim Creek, Albemarle Sound, NC
Quote from: PapawBrett on Jul 27, 2024, 01:41 PMRight now, I have all ready purchased 150' 5/8 Low Stretch Line ( Main Halyard and Sheet, Jib Halyard) and 100' 1/4 Low Stretch ( Jib Sheets and Boom Vang) to replace lines. At first glance the stainless steel Forward Stay and Both Shrouds, along with all of the SS Fixtures, looks to be in good shape.
I will be taking the rudder apart to examine the wood. I have no idea how to examine the centerboard while on the trailer.
When I went to buy this boat, I took cardboard and a flashlight so I could go under the trailer and examine the hull. No holes, abrasions, cracks or rough spots. For $1900 I at least wanted it to float. Also, I asked the Broker to have the mast and sails up when I got there for examination, and he did. The Fiberglass looks clean, no holes/ rips/ repairs to the sails (polyester, not canvas). The aluminum mast and boom appear to be in good condition.
Once I get the trailer straitened out,I'll move the boat from the driveway to the backyard where I'll have overhead space to raise the mast and get into it a little closer.
Sure sounds like she's in great shape overall. For CB inspection, if you have the space in the backyard, you might be able to yard launch and careen the boat to get access. I used to do it with my O'Day Daysailer, easy peasy.
For the standing rigging, you are mainly looking for any sharp kinks or bends in the cable, and any rust/corrosion/broken strands where the end fittings are swaged on, since that is the most common failure point.
I'm correcting a misspoken statement....
5/16" double braided polyester, and 1/4" double braided polyester. As required according to the General Specifications listed for the 15' on the Precision Website.
Both Low Stretch, and mild, mildew and rot resistant.
Sorry about the previous post ..
Back again...
So I finally have my trailer straightened out (Ford has two separate fuses for trailer lights and trailer signals).
Breezy today, so I just raised the mast and checked the rigging. All the stainless looks good, going to replace the lines anyway.
But I am confused... Does the sail hold up the boom ? I know the slots in mast and boom are for the mainsail. The forward end of the boom does too, but nothing holds it up...
A little advice, please...
On most small sailboats the main sail holds up the boom. You can add a sail track stop under the boom to keep it from dropping when lowering the main.
https://sailm8.com/products/davis-sail-track-stops-flat (https://sailm8.com/products/davis-sail-track-stops-flat)
Quote from: Wolverine on Sep 14, 2024, 08:25 PMOn most small sailboats the main sail holds up the boom. You can add a sail track stop under the boom to keep it from dropping when lowering the main.
https://sailm8.com/products/davis-sail-track-stops-flat (https://sailm8.com/products/davis-sail-track-stops-flat)
That looks like something I could definitely use.
Thanks!
Brett, welcome! I had a P15CB for a few years and ended up rigging a topping lift which is handy when the main is not in use. I don't remember any issues with the main raised, however I did use a mast gate and stop when I converted the sail for slugs. Does your sail have slugs right now?
Quote from: Quantico Frank on Sep 15, 2024, 08:49 AMBrett, welcome! I had a P15CB for a few years and ended up rigging a topping lift which is handy when the main is not in use. I don't remember any issues with the main raised, however I did use a mast gate and stop when I converted the sail for slugs. Does your sail have slugs right now?
The mainsail is still in a bag. It's been breezy/ windy here in the Piedmont area (near Charlotte) so I haven't set up the sails yet. If memory serves (debatable) the main has a heavy cord down into the luff (?) and there is an open area in the lower part of the mast groove where you feed the luff into the mast.
Once this tropical depression moves on, maybe I'll get a chance to raise the sails...
Quote from: PapawBrett on Sep 16, 2024, 08:06 PMQuote from: Quantico Frank on Sep 15, 2024, 08:49 AMBrett, welcome! I had a P15CB for a few years and ended up rigging a topping lift which is handy when the main is not in use. I don't remember any issues with the main raised, however I did use a mast gate and stop when I converted the sail for slugs. Does your sail have slugs right now?
The mainsail is still in a bag. It's been breezy/ windy here in the Piedmont area (near Charlotte) so I haven't set up the sails yet. If memory serves (debatable) the main has a heavy cord down into the luff (?) and there is an open area in the lower part of the mast groove where you feed the luff into the mast.
Once this tropical depression moves on, maybe I'll get a chance to raise the sails...
Yes, that sounds right. That cord is called a "bolt rope". One of the few "rope like things" on a sailboat that's actually called a rope. :)
Newer mainsails often have "slugs" attached to the luff that go into the mast track instead of the bolt rope.
I am also a retiree who recently bought a Precision 15 CB a few monthe ago. It's of good quality, stable, and easily man-handled both on land and in the water. Some random thoughts as follows: A motor of some sort is a great help when leaving launching ramps. I have a small trolling motor now, suitable for calm days, and am considering a 2.5 HP gas outboard. I store the boat at home and launch each time I sail. If the boat was kept on a mooring I'd probably do without a motor. A toppimg lift to hold up the boom when the main sail is down, to me is essential. Simplest version is a light line tied at top of mast and end of boom. You can get fancier with a few fittings to make it adjustable. Any time I buy a trailer, I have the bearings replaced. I just had new hubs and bearings installed for about $200. I like to have guides on the trailer that make it easier to retrieve the boat when the wind is blowing and you can't get it straight on the trailer. My boat came with a roller furling jib. Clearly not required but for me (in my 70s) it was mandatory for single handing. As an add on, it's available from Precision. You'll need the excellent Harken furling gear as well as a new jib for a total of about $800. By adding one cam cleat near the mast step and by attaching a line to the forestay, I'm able to step the mast by myself. I'm sure others have good solutions for this as well. Personally, because I'm not so flexible anymore, I find the seats and the tiller, a bit low. I'm considering cushions and a different tiller although neither are required. My wife says that I enjoy working on boats more than sailing them. I think she might be right.
Quote from: rfljr@aol.com on Sep 21, 2024, 10:16 AMI am also a retiree who recently bought a Precision 15 CB a few monthe ago. It's of good quality, stable, and easily man-handled both on land and in the water. Some random thoughts as follows: A motor of some sort is a great help when leaving launching ramps. I have a small trolling motor now, suitable for calm days, and am considering a 2.5 HP gas outboard. I store the boat at home and launch each time I sail. If the boat was kept on a mooring I'd probably do without a motor.
Any time I buy a trailer, I have the bearings replaced. I just had new hubs and bearings installed for about $200. I like to have guides on the trailer that make it easier to retrieve the boat when the wind is blowing and you can't get it straight on the trailer.
There are two sections of 2X8 mounted on the stern. Port side is for a small motor (pricing a 2.5 hp outboard), and the starboard side has a fold up swimming ladder attached. Definitely want the motor.
Part of my trailer work was new hubs/ bearings/ seals and new rims/ tires. I was able to get the Hub Assembly at eTrailer for about $34. Handpacked the bearings with marine grease myself, and installed in the driveway. New lighting as well.
Don't know about the roller jib systems yet. They look easier. If the Jib gets to be a problem, then maybe I'll go that route.
So...
Using one ton jack, two 4" X 6" X 8' beams, and 12 cement blocks, I was able to lift my boat off of the trailer and examine/ paint underneath. The centerboard had a few nicks, filled easily enough. Sea Hawk 33 AF bottom cost ($60 a quart online) for two coats, and she's back on the trailer. Raised the mast and boom just to get a look at assembly/ associated fittings. Found a couple loose rivets on one of the stays, easily fixed.
Next is replacing a few wood trim pieces. Thinking pressure treated, stained maybe twice, then three coats of marine varnish.
Maybe for Christmas Santa will bring me a 2.5 HP 20"shaft outboard for ramps and /or emergency. Any good outboard dealers online ?
Hi, Brett! I've used these guys before, and they seem pretty good: https://onlineoutboards.com/. Looks like they're having a sale.
Quote from: PapawBrett on Nov 19, 2024, 03:45 PMSo...
Using one ton jack, two 4" X 6" X 8' beams, and 12 cement blocks, I was able to lift my boat off of the trailer and examine/ paint underneath. The centerboard had a few nicks, filled easily enough. Sea Hawk 33 AF bottom cost ($60 a quart online) for two coats, and she's back on the trailer. Raised the mast and boom just to get a look at assembly/ associated fittings. Found a couple loose rivets on one of the stays, easily fixed.
Next is replacing a few wood trim pieces. Thinking pressure treated, stained maybe twice, then three coats of marine varnish.
Maybe for Christmas Santa will bring me a 2.5 HP 20"shaft outboard for ramps and /or emergency. Any good outboard dealers online ?
Sounds like some great and satisfying progress !
Don't know if you made a decision on roller furling yet or not but you might need a different jib... or maybe not.
I think on most boats that size, the furler is made up of a drum on the bottom and a swivel at the top with the job essentially acting as the forestay. So the jib would need a wire in the luff suitable for that.
Quote from: tjspiel on Sep 16, 2024, 09:15 PMYes, that sounds right. That cord is called a "bolt rope". One of the few "rope like things" on a sailboat that's actually called a rope. :)
Tom, there are four ropes on a boat that I know of: boltrope, footrope, bellrope, and the one that, when mentioned, makes people laugh nervously and change the subject - the hangman's rope! :o
Quote from: Quantico Frank on Nov 20, 2024, 06:41 AMHi, Brett! I've used these guys before, and they seem pretty good: https://onlineoutboards.com/. Looks like they're having a sale.
Suzuki 2.5hp 20" (long) shaft ordered. Supposed to be here by the end of the month. List as $1145, but on sale for $760. (which is about what everyone else is selling 2.5HP for end of year) Basically for emergency use and to avoid "ramp rage".
Also, there is a county park near me called Cane Creek Park. 1500 acre park wrapped around a 350 acre lake. The lake is maybe a mile wide, but a little narrow in some spots, and max depth of 40'. Shoals are marked with buoys.
Free access for 65 and older, not much happening there from October to March according to the Camp Ranger. Nobody there while I was checking the place out. Two Ramps in the "day area", one has a tree limb overhang maybe 15' up but the other is clear of obstruction. A North (or South) wind should give me access across the entire lake. 15mph with 25 gusts from the ENE today, so I'll wait to try my luck. Six miles of country two-lane between me and getting the hull wet for the first time !
Wow, that's a great price, Brett. I have that engine, and I absolutely love it.
Ok, if anyone is still listening...
Mounted my outboard onto the back of the boat, set lower end in new trash can filled with water, and started up briefly. Maybe three minutes. Then removed water and can from lower end.
A friend suggested winterizing. I only ran it for three minutes tops, so don't see why it's necessary to drain/ refill oil or lower case. But I did add some stabilizer to the fuel.
'Cold' in the piedmont area is anything near freezing. Might get on week of nightly temperatures in the teens. Is there anything else I should do if I plan on leaving the motor outside ?
One man's opinion:
I would check the oil in the lower unit to make sure it is 100% oil and not an emulsion of water/oil.
The water you ran the engine in should have all drained out immediately after removing the trash can.
Anybody else?
On most water cooled motors, water from the pump goes up into the block, fills it, and overflows out. All that water is still in the block.
The instruction booklet should tell you how to get that water out. Mine had a screw to remove, and after water quit running out, pull the start rope a few times to pump air into the pipe from the pump. Then replace the screw, so it cannot get lost.
Even though I removed all the water I could, I kept my motors in the garage, which was always warmer than outside, and usually above freezing.
Using 2X4 and some decking screws, I built an outboard stand and moved the motor into the garage.
There is a chapter in the owners manual for storing the motor, next day off will be dedicated to just that.
Warm today, time for replacing a few lines. Youtube (or you-stupid, as I call it) makes whipping easy. BUT I don't have a needle or the experience, so instead of using metal eyelets (thimbles ?) on the ends of the lanyards I am just tying bowline knots into Captive "D" Shackle (?). I would share pictures but I am techno-challenged, and my grandkids aren't around...
I bought one 2 years ago and have been having a blast with it. I added the self-furling jib last year and I really love it as I sail alone most of the time. I'm adding the ladder because I found I could not get back up into the boat after righting it. I added a trolling motor which is a really good solution with a lot less weight and hassle than an outboard. One of the rivets on a spreader popped out,any advice on replacing it? I love the idea of the top-lift and may add that this year.
Quote from: wvanderclock on Mar 04, 2025, 10:01 PMI bought one 2 years ago and have been having a blast with it. I added the self-furling jib last year and I really love it as I sail alone most of the time. I'm adding the ladder because I found I could not get back up into the boat after righting it. I added a trolling motor which is a really good solution with a lot less weight and hassle than an outboard. One of the rivets on a spreader popped out,any advice on replacing it? I love the idea of the top-lift and may add that this year.
I replaced two rivets on one of my spreaders. It's easy. a small collection of various size rivets, a rivet tool, and the ability to squeeze a tennis ball is about all you need. Choose the rivet hat barely fits in the holes (spreader and mast), line it all up, put the rivet in the tool, set the rivet and start squeezing. really simple.
Thanks so much for the response. You make replacing the rivet sound very easy. I'll let you know how it goes.
Does anyone have any advice on sail trim? I used to race Lightnings which had lots of sail trim information online. I can't seem to find any other than the tiny bit in the owner's manual for the Precision.
Also, has anyone worked out a good way to single handed get the boat back upright after going over? I can't reach the centerboard from the water.
What a Total disaster. First Sail, set up and launch without difficulty. But half way out, I hit a dead spot on th lake (pond ?) and sat there. an occasional puff of air would give me hope, before going slack again. After drifting onto a rip-rap shoreline, the wind returns to try to keep me there. Centerboard and ribber up, row against the breeze far enopught to start up my 2 1/2 Hp and move out. heading towards the ramp, the wind picks up a good 10 mph and drifts me onto a rip-rap on the other shore. After four tries, and getting blown away from the ramp, an elderly couple helps me ramp and trailer my boat. then, pulling out without looking up, catch a tree branch and rip the forestay out of the bow, opening about a four square inch hole right on top of the bow.
Thinking sailing is not for me. Maybe look for a bow plate, than sell the Sea Urchin