- Welcome to Trailer-Sailor.com Bulletin Board.
News:
Welcome to the new TSBB Forum! --- TSBB Chat Room is here!
Recent posts
#11
Precision / Re: A trick for getting those ...
Last post by Brian N. - Apr 22, 2024, 09:42 AMInteresting solution. Still curious as to how they installed the caps during the initial build on later models with the jib tracks factory installed.
#12
Precision / Re: A trick for getting those ...
Last post by DBthal - Apr 22, 2024, 06:24 AMTom,
Glad you "broke the code" on getting the plastic caps on. It's a bit of a chore and there sure are a lot of jib track fasteners to cover!
Dan
Glad you "broke the code" on getting the plastic caps on. It's a bit of a chore and there sure are a lot of jib track fasteners to cover!
Dan
#13
For Sale Boats / Re: XXXX - West Wight Potter 1...
Last post by Sailor Ken - Apr 21, 2024, 11:27 PMWould love some photos if still available.
Thanks, Ken
Thanks, Ken
#14
TSBB General Talk / Re: Auxillary motor transom mo...
Last post by pgandw - Apr 21, 2024, 07:41 PMTook some doing, but I finally figured out we are talking a Sage 15. Still don't know what the transom looks like or the dimensions.
I have the Epropulsion Spirit long shaft on my Mariner (19ft). The boat already had an adjustable outboard bracket, which had previously carried a 5hp long shaft Honda which weighed 60 lbs. The longer shaft length has good and bad.
The good: I don't have to lower the bracket all the way to get the prop well into the water. With the prop properly submerged, the outboard tiller is above the transom and easy to reach and use. Unlike the Honda Where I had to reach down behind the transom to shift the motor from forward to neutral or reverse, I just reverse the rotation of the the tiller to put the Spirit in reverse.
The bad: Because the tiller doesn't fold in the up direction (I see that is fixed on the Elite) and the length of the motor, I can't tilt the motor out of the water without raising the mount all the way, twisting the motor 90 degrees, and then tilting it. The 90 degree twist means I can't use the steering locking pin which can only be accessed by removing the battery. Fortunately, the steering has enough friction to hold 95% of the time.
On my 1400lb 19ft boat I rarely (and I mean rarely) use more than 500 watts on the Spirit motor, which is what the Elite is rated at. I normally use 300-400 watts, and will slow to 250 watts when I'm exploring back creeks.
According to the Elite web page, the shaft adjusts up to 15" in length, the same as a normal short shaft motor. I would seriously consider ditching the Torqueedo, put the Elite in its place, and get the optional 12V charger cord. Then carry a 100AH 12V LiFePO battery in a plastic battery box in your boat, and connect to the battery when you need more charge on the Elite to get you home. The 100AH battery will give backup more than twice of what the integral battery has. I've seen these batteries as cheap as $160 on Amazon, and they weight less than 25 lbs. You can also use it for cabin lights or any other 12v application on your boat.
Second best solution (to me) is Option 3.
Option 4 would be to replace the motor mount the Torqueedo is on with a motor mount better suited to the Elite. An adjustable height motor mount should work really well (both for the Torqueedo and the Elite). Only has to be rated for 50lbs weight.
Just my suggestions, feel free to ignore. Without photos and/or measurements, I can't do any better.
Fred W
Stuart Mariner 19 #4133 Sweet P
Yeopim Creek, Albemarle Sound, NC
I have the Epropulsion Spirit long shaft on my Mariner (19ft). The boat already had an adjustable outboard bracket, which had previously carried a 5hp long shaft Honda which weighed 60 lbs. The longer shaft length has good and bad.
The good: I don't have to lower the bracket all the way to get the prop well into the water. With the prop properly submerged, the outboard tiller is above the transom and easy to reach and use. Unlike the Honda Where I had to reach down behind the transom to shift the motor from forward to neutral or reverse, I just reverse the rotation of the the tiller to put the Spirit in reverse.
The bad: Because the tiller doesn't fold in the up direction (I see that is fixed on the Elite) and the length of the motor, I can't tilt the motor out of the water without raising the mount all the way, twisting the motor 90 degrees, and then tilting it. The 90 degree twist means I can't use the steering locking pin which can only be accessed by removing the battery. Fortunately, the steering has enough friction to hold 95% of the time.
On my 1400lb 19ft boat I rarely (and I mean rarely) use more than 500 watts on the Spirit motor, which is what the Elite is rated at. I normally use 300-400 watts, and will slow to 250 watts when I'm exploring back creeks.
According to the Elite web page, the shaft adjusts up to 15" in length, the same as a normal short shaft motor. I would seriously consider ditching the Torqueedo, put the Elite in its place, and get the optional 12V charger cord. Then carry a 100AH 12V LiFePO battery in a plastic battery box in your boat, and connect to the battery when you need more charge on the Elite to get you home. The 100AH battery will give backup more than twice of what the integral battery has. I've seen these batteries as cheap as $160 on Amazon, and they weight less than 25 lbs. You can also use it for cabin lights or any other 12v application on your boat.
Second best solution (to me) is Option 3.
Option 4 would be to replace the motor mount the Torqueedo is on with a motor mount better suited to the Elite. An adjustable height motor mount should work really well (both for the Torqueedo and the Elite). Only has to be rated for 50lbs weight.
Just my suggestions, feel free to ignore. Without photos and/or measurements, I can't do any better.
Fred W
Stuart Mariner 19 #4133 Sweet P
Yeopim Creek, Albemarle Sound, NC
#15
TSBB General Talk / Re: Lake Superior Spring. Time...
Last post by Spot - Apr 21, 2024, 06:39 PMSwung by Pepin and Byllesby, our local 'lakes', which are indeed reservoirs of the Mississippi and Cannon Rivers respectively this afternoon. I am only a couple miles from the west end of Byllesby. Sunny day, about 60F, windy enough wind for small whitecaps and to keep the flags straight out off their poles.. Lots of early season fisherpeople in motorboats on both waters but only one sailboat on Pepin. Probably a dozen some owners at Lake City Marina opening their boats, applying bottom paint, stern lettering, etc. amidst a cacophony of halyard slapping. Rough guess there were 150-200 boats waiting to go in at the marina, slips were probably only 5% occupied. Walked the beach and collected some trash at Byllesby and was awarded a small hank of double braid and an intact but cleaned (eaten) clam shell. The water was pretty low, the rocks I normally avoid launching were 10 feet in and a couple feet higher than the water's edge.
You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.
#16
Precision / A trick for getting those plas...
Last post by tjspiel - Apr 21, 2024, 06:23 PMMcMaster-Carr sells them in both white and black.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/~/cap-type~snap-on/?s=snap+on+fastener+caps
But they are meant to go over screw heads and not nuts. They are tough to get on even over the lower profile lock nuts Dan recommended.
I did it last time by heating them with a heat gun which worked but it was still really difficult and I messed up a few of them by overheating them.
Precision must have had a better way and I think I stumbled on to it by accident.
Today I was using a Dremel to cut off the end of the screws from my new jib tracks so they were flush with the nuts. I noticed they got pretty got. So about half way through it dawned on me to try to snap one of the covers on right after cutting the screw, - and what do you know? It went on so much easier.
Wish I would have figured that out sooner.
For the rest I took a heat gut with a small diameter nozzle to heat the nut and the little saucer around it. With my Milwaukee 1200 heat gun, the low setting was good enough. You want to be careful just to heat the nut and not melt the monkey fur.
The caps did not go on quite as easy as after cutting off the screws but still better than heating the cap. The cap cools off too quickly, but the metal nut and saucer retain the heat.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/~/cap-type~snap-on/?s=snap+on+fastener+caps
But they are meant to go over screw heads and not nuts. They are tough to get on even over the lower profile lock nuts Dan recommended.
I did it last time by heating them with a heat gun which worked but it was still really difficult and I messed up a few of them by overheating them.
Precision must have had a better way and I think I stumbled on to it by accident.
Today I was using a Dremel to cut off the end of the screws from my new jib tracks so they were flush with the nuts. I noticed they got pretty got. So about half way through it dawned on me to try to snap one of the covers on right after cutting the screw, - and what do you know? It went on so much easier.
Wish I would have figured that out sooner.
For the rest I took a heat gut with a small diameter nozzle to heat the nut and the little saucer around it. With my Milwaukee 1200 heat gun, the low setting was good enough. You want to be careful just to heat the nut and not melt the monkey fur.
The caps did not go on quite as easy as after cutting off the screws but still better than heating the cap. The cap cools off too quickly, but the metal nut and saucer retain the heat.
#17
TSBB General Talk / Auxillary motor transom mount.
Last post by noelH - Apr 21, 2024, 04:13 PMOrdered the ePropulsion elite as a backup motor. The Temo 1000 chinese knock-off. 1/3 the price, but 1/3 the battery capacity. Real short shaft, but real light weight(6.7kg) and equivalent to 2.5hp ICE in terms of thrust. The short shaft Torqeedo Travel is fine in all but real heavy seas, but is ~20cm longer. Guessing the motor mount will be too high for all but calm waters. And if that motor fails or runs out of juice. Pita to remove from the cockpit unless seas are calm.
So.... the auxiliary motor mount. Don't have the space on the side opposite to the motor mount (starboard of rudder). Boarding ladder located there.
Option 1 is to remove the boarding ladder and use the existing fitting to mount a fixed motor mount. But then climbing back into Vela after going overboard would be a bit of an effort.
Option 2 is mounting basically a length of 2x4 onto the vertical section right above where the folding ladder folds. Measured and should have enough space to almost fold back the ladder as designed. Would add a horizontal handhold for using the ladder when no motor mounted. Which would be all the time except when needing to motor. Board held on by some U-clamps. Would have to recess the nut and washer end. The 1" clamps I have sitting around only total of 2" long. Save scraping flesh on protruding nuts when using the ladder.
Option 3 is to build a mount that just slips over the transom. Something similar to the mount I built for the sculling oar I cobbled together. Marina does not allow for non-motor powered exit and entry. So that and the bit too short an oar was one of my futile builds.
Options 4,5,6.... from the more brilliant minds here at TS?
If going with option 2. Redwood or cedar or UC4A treated lumber? Worried about the modern treated lumber and the steel of the boarding ladder and U-bolts reacting. I think the bolts are 304 stainless steel.
So.... the auxiliary motor mount. Don't have the space on the side opposite to the motor mount (starboard of rudder). Boarding ladder located there.
Option 1 is to remove the boarding ladder and use the existing fitting to mount a fixed motor mount. But then climbing back into Vela after going overboard would be a bit of an effort.
Option 2 is mounting basically a length of 2x4 onto the vertical section right above where the folding ladder folds. Measured and should have enough space to almost fold back the ladder as designed. Would add a horizontal handhold for using the ladder when no motor mounted. Which would be all the time except when needing to motor. Board held on by some U-clamps. Would have to recess the nut and washer end. The 1" clamps I have sitting around only total of 2" long. Save scraping flesh on protruding nuts when using the ladder.
Option 3 is to build a mount that just slips over the transom. Something similar to the mount I built for the sculling oar I cobbled together. Marina does not allow for non-motor powered exit and entry. So that and the bit too short an oar was one of my futile builds.
Options 4,5,6.... from the more brilliant minds here at TS?
If going with option 2. Redwood or cedar or UC4A treated lumber? Worried about the modern treated lumber and the steel of the boarding ladder and U-bolts reacting. I think the bolts are 304 stainless steel.
#18
Precision / Re: Bottom painting P 165
Last post by Quantico Frank - Apr 21, 2024, 11:03 AMAlso, Rich, you might talk with a friendly boat yard to find out what they use for the most part. The boatyard I use, located south of Annapolis, even asked their distributor for a recommendation for me because I sail on both fresh and salt water. They recommended Petit Hydrocoat (not HRT, which I had previously thought), and I'm really happy with the results.
#19
Precision / Re: Bottom painting P 165
Last post by Dave Scobie - Apr 21, 2024, 08:54 AMTalk with the folks at the lake's sailing club about which paint(s) work for them. The effective paints at a specific location means asking locals what brands and mix works on your lake.
#20
TSBB General Talk / SailPack Regatta - Oriental, N...
Last post by Wolverine - Apr 20, 2024, 08:33 PMThis is the 14th year Oriental has hosted a collegiate SailPack regatta. This year 7 student sailors from UVA are staying in our home. Wonderful young men and women. There are 18 schools participating from as far as Indiana and Texas to schools up and down the East coast. Even though they are competing against one another, they all get along between races and afterwards. Pics below are some of the field and Connor and Luka from UVA.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.