Deck/Hull Joint

[rfrance0718]

It's time for me to face the facts about the deck joint on my Oday 240. It's shot. I've had leakage during rain storms and when sailing in heavier wind and waves for years, but I've been ignoring how bad it's been getting. I've also tried some quick fixes that have failed.

At this point, I don't know a lot about the repair. I know that I have to remove the rub rail to expose the actual joint. The rub rail is a two part arrangement with a plastic extrusion that holds a rubber insert, which I actually already have. I don't understand yet how the rubber insert fits into the extrusion. I'm wondering if the existing extrusion can be re-used or if its removal will destroy it. I see that DR Marine has the extrusion and it's not too expensive. I'm going to call them and see what they know about the joint repair.

The joint still seems solid at the bow and the stern. (no leaking there) I can see from the diagram that the screws should be easy enough to remove, but there are obvious concerns. Can I remove old bedding compound? Will I be able work the gap and get new material in there? Will the screws seat in their original holes?

The other issue is what caused it in the first place? The 240 has threaded posts that connect the shroud chainplates to a bulkheads below the shelves behind the settees. I had seen warnings that the nuts could loosen up and allow the chain plates to pull up the deck. I had inspected these a while back and thought that they were good, but who knows? I'm sure that if that is the problem that it will be pretty obvious when I tear into it.

I'm thinking that I'll gather up needed, info,  parts, and supplies and pull the boat in mid October. That should give me a weather window to work with. Also, I store the boat by a friends huge pole barn and there should be some indoor space that I could use for a time.

This could potentially muck up my Bahamas plans, but hopefully not. I've also put off replacing my cabin cushions until I got the leaks fixed, so I'm getting quotes for those.

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[rfrance0718]

Or just buy this. It showed up at our marina this week. Alberg 25? No for sale sign. I've been thinking that I would be good if my boat had a deeper keel. For what I'm doing with the boat, getting it lifted in and out would be fine. Just a thought.You cannot view this attachment.

[Spot]

The Alberg is sharp!
I imagine if the polyurethane (red) or screw holes (orange)failed, there would be a path for water.
The trim pieces should slide into the end of the extrusions, same tech on old RV's.

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[rfrance0718]

Hopefully it will be pretty obvious when I open it up. I can also pull some of the liner back and look at it from the inside. When I look at the cross section it really doesn't look like a great joint.

[rfrance0718]

I talked to D and R Marine yesterday  He said that the rubber insert goes in by inserting the upper lip and pinching the bottom to snap it in place. He suggests that some heat will help. It should come out the same way. The extrusion might survive, might not. He can get me the extrusion pretty quickly so I can wait to see how it goes. He seemed pretty encouraging about resealing the joint once it is exposed. As always, I have high hopes going into the project.

[Wyb2]

That's an interesting joint setup.  Despite the somewhat misleading arrow, I'm guessing the vertical cross-hatch material is wood for the screws to self-tap, and the bedding is just between the 2 layers of fiberglass.

I recently did ~80% of the deck/hull joint on my Macgregor 25, but that was through-bolted with nuts on the inside.  The downside to this is re-assembly is extremely annoying without 2 people.

I don't understand yet how the rubber insert fits into the extrusion. I'm wondering if the existing extrusion can be re-used or if its removal will destroy it.

It should just peel out without much damage.  Getting it back in is tiring, but straightforward, you just push it in while working it back and forth, possibly with the help of a flat-head screwdriver.

Can I remove old bedding compound?

Probably not all of it.  But I think this is OK, pretty sure polyurethane (5200/4200 and some others, Sika products I think) bonds pretty well to old polyurethane.  I think it's just a matter getting out any loose stuff and cleaning in there the best you can.

Will I be able work the gap and get new material in there?

If the bedding bond is already broken, probably.  On my Mac, the original sealant was actually a gasket, not a bedding compound.  When I unbolted a section, it would generally open up enough on it's own to fit the nozzle of a chalk gun.  Where it didn't, a pry bar did the trick without very much force applied.

Will the screws seat in their original holes?

This would be my biggest concern with this design.  If that is wood, and the joint has been leaking, it is likely wet and soft and not strong enough to hold screw threads.  I'm guessing access is bad enough that removing the wood from the opening on top is not really feasible.  I think the best option would be to drill each location out larger from the inside, then fill with epoxy, or epoxy in new wood plugs for the screws to tap into.

[rfrance0718]

Thanks, that's all great info. You've got me thinking about thru bolting from the outside, depending on whether it looks like that would tighten it up better.

[Jeff G.]

We did our deck/hull joint on our old US27. Similar design.  The rub rail comes out a LOT easier than it goes back, but it will go back.  Have a heat gun, rubber mallet and a dull stone chisel when you need to tap it in. Good luck.  Once you get a feel for putting it back it isn't terrible, but expect some exasperation at first.  Just remember, it will go.

[rfrance0718]

Thanks! I actually have new rubber insert that the previous owner had purchased. I don't know if it would go in easier or not. The old insert seems fine.

[Noemi - Ensenada 20]

The rubber inserts tend to get hard and brittle with time.  It's good that a new one is available. 

You might be able to pry the hull away from the deck with a couple of flat-head screwdrivers.

Replacing the self-tapping screws with through bolts would give you more strength in that they wouldn't rely on the wood to hold.  Don't tighten them too tight, though, or you may crack the fiberglass.  If I were doing that job, I'd use bolts, and make some of them longer than they need to be so I could attach things to them inside. 

[rfrance0718]

Thanks Noemi. I'm just wondering how much my "new" rub rail has hardened. It's been sitting in the box for 10 years. At least it hasn't been in the elements.