Almost-a-SCAMP Progress Report #3 . . . . .

[DBthal]

" Posted by Spot  - Today at 07:56 AM
Mr Brennan, I'd like to respectfully offer this method for consideration:

4) Remove blush (if needed), sand, re-fillet, and tape."

I agree with Spot on steps to proceed. However, there is an additional step needed - fairing.
Once the fiberglass tape is cured, any blush needs to be removed, sanded, cleaned, & faired.

I've had very good results with the following product:

https://www.systemthree.com/collections/marine/products/silvertip-quikfair-epoxy-fairing-putty

Dan

[Charles Brennan]

Spot and Dan, Thanks for the corrections/advice.
Clearly, I have never done this kind of stuff before, so I'm wide open to all the advice I can get!

Thanks,
Charles Brennan

[Spot]

You are welcome CB. I think you are going to do just fine. Just some more musings below so I don't forget to mention stuff.

I would make a timing plan so that the taping goes over the fillets wet-on-wet or within the recoat before blush window for the resin to avoid a de-blush and sanding step after fillets. I have always used micro sphere and fumed silica, if you are using phenolic or wood flour the fillets might be a little different 'body' to apply. I settled into disposable clear plastic cake frosting bags to dispense and a large rounded stir stick to finish the radius. I would mix and lay about 6 feet of fillet (both sides of the beam I was glassing in) and then come back and add the cloth and resin (in my case 3 layers 1708 w/ epoxy-compatible mat). I would pre-measure the powders, pre-cut tape, mix in the garage or on a work bench just outside the boat, then apply in the boat. I would also make a couple sample joints to try on the bench to get a feel for it before going after the boat. In my case with 3x 1708 DBXM I did the wet-out and stack-up on a table and rolled it up and brought on-board. I would probably not do this with 1 layer 4 or 6oz tape, just a gentle brush of resin over the fillet, lay tape, let soak a bit, then add just enough resin that the cloth is fully wet but the weave is still visible to avoid 'floating' the tape in resin which makes a more brittle bond.