Mercury 5 HP Sail Power carb tear down, HELP!

[eaglecreeksailor22]

When I purchased my P 21 last August the 2022 Merc 5 hp was not accelerating, would bog down past fast idle with out choke pulled out 1/2 way, still runs rough. I had a back up motor so I put the 5 hp away so I could enjoy the boat the last couple months of the season.

Now trying to get the 5 hp running properly. It has had regular gas ran in it. I have drained the tank, carb bowl and replaced fuel filter and bought fresh non ethanol fuel. Local Merc dealer suggested I run a it with Quicksilver engine and fuel system cleaner additive.
$20 a bottle, ok if it works well worth it. It did not, and I did run it in a tank quite awhile. Engine does start and idles ok.

Local dealer wants $300+ to pull carb and clean. I want to try myself. Looking at a diagram of the carb looks like what I think is the main jet is called main nozzle in the diagram. Is that what I need to clean out?

Any suggestions or advice greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long story.

One day closer to spring, I have warm clothes but just need open water, ice is thick still.

Thanks,
Rich

[CapnK]

Hi Rich - $300??? Wow!

It's not hard at all, just be thorough. I always take carbs all the way apart (take pictures as you go to keep track of parts), then use a thin wire to poke out holes and shoot cleaner into/through every orifice.

If you just clean the one jet, it is not unlikely that a speck o' something will still be floating around in there ready to embarrass (or even endanger) you at the most inopportune moment (of course...).

Or, send it to me, and for only $275 I'll have it back to you in a jiffy.

[tjspiel]

Usually there are a couple of jets. They have tiny holes and to clean them out you'll want a strand of copper wire about the same diameter as the holes. Copper is recommended because it's soft and won't damage the holes.

Removing the idle air jet to clean it means you'll have to readjust it when you put it back in. That can be kind of a black art.

You'll also want to make sure the inside of the bowl is shiny clean.

I've had mixed results with carb cleaning. Sometimes my small engines ran like new afterwards and other times there have still been problems.

Replacement carbs can often be pretty inexpensive if you look around. It won't hurt to try and repair first. It bothers me to throw things aways that could be repaired but getting a new one can save a lot of frustration.

[Wolverine]

I had the same problem with my 4hp Tohatsu. It would only run with the choke on. They wanted the same, $300, to rebuild the carb, or $125 to replace it. Guess what I chose.

[eaglecreeksailor22]

Usually there are a couple of jets. They have tiny holes and to clean them out you'll want a strand of copper wire about the same diameter as the holes. Copper is recommended because it's soft and won't damage the holes.

Removing the idle air jet to clean it means you'll have to readjust it when you put it back in. That can be kind of a black art.

You'll also want to make sure the inside of the bowl is shiny clean.

I've had mixed results with carb cleaning. Sometimes my small engines ran like new afterwards and other times there have still been problems.

Replacement carbs can often be pretty inexpensive if you look around. It won't hurt to try and repair first. It bothers me to throw things aways that could be repaired but getting a new one can save a lot of frustration.

Have you found any brand/supplier of non OEM carbs that you have had luck with? I know tear down and clean does not always work.

[Riggerdood]

It's also not a bad idea to get the shop manual for the outboard. I have one for both the Honda 2 and the Nissan 6. Many of them cover more than one model. For instance, the Honda one covers both the 2 and the 2.3, and has an appendix describing the differences. The Nissan one covers the 4, 5, and 6C models, also showing the differences. Both have very detailed sections on carb removal, rebuild, and replacement, and I've found both to be very helpful. I've also found that using an ultrasonic machine to clean the carb works very well. I picked up this one on an Amazon Prime Day for like 35% off. Looks like it's 17% off today.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDIFAG2?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[eaglecreeksailor22]

Usually there are a couple of jets. They have tiny holes and to clean them out you'll want a strand of copper wire about the same diameter as the holes. Copper is recommended because it's soft and won't damage the holes.

Removing the idle air jet to clean it means you'll have to readjust it when you put it back in. That can be kind of a black art.

You'll also want to make sure the inside of the bowl is shiny clean.

I've had mixed results with carb cleaning. Sometimes my small engines ran like new afterwards and other times there have still been problems.

Replacement carbs can often be pretty inexpensive if you look around. It won't hurt to try and repair first. It bothers me to throw things aways that could be repaired but getting a new one can save a lot of frustration.

Have you found any brand/supplier of non OEM carbs that you have had luck with? I know tear down and clean does not always work.

WEll I watched a couple U tube videos and took the carb off and cleaned as much as I could find that could be removed. The motor is a 2022 model and the main nozzle is fixed, but was able to run a copper wire through it. All was clean inside but sprayed the H out of it. Will be in an area tomorrow that sells true fuel at the pump and will get a couple gallons, treat it, fill it up and hope for a miracle. If this does not fix it I may opt for a ultrasonic cleaner. This motor is  Merc 5 hp Sailpower with less that 10 hours, has some value when running right. New carb is $320, ouch!

[tjspiel]

Have you found any brand/supplier of non OEM carbs that you have had luck with? I know tear down and clean does not always work.

There are all kids of Chinese brands and I just look for ones that get good reviews. I've only ever bought two.

[pgandw]

An option to consider - switching to an electric outboard.  Expensive upfront, but lower cost long term.  And a shoulder saver.  I use an Epropulsion Spirit 1.0 (3hp equivalent) on my 19ft Mariner.  Cost $2500 up front.  12nm/3hrs at 400 watts, 4 kts.  No gas, no carb, no sore shoulder from starting or lifting motor on and off the boat.

I motor more with the electric than I did with the Honda 5hp gas motor I had because of the quiet and convenience.

Pays your money, makes your choices.

Fred W

[eaglecreeksailor22]

Usually there are a couple of jets. They have tiny holes and to clean them out you'll want a strand of copper wire about the same diameter as the holes. Copper is recommended because it's soft and won't damage the holes.

Removing the idle air jet to clean it means you'll have to readjust it when you put it back in. That can be kind of a black art.

You'll also want to make sure the inside of the bowl is shiny clean.

I've had mixed results with carb cleaning. Sometimes my small engines ran like new afterwards and other times there have still been problems.

Replacement carbs can often be pretty inexpensive if you look around. It won't hurt to try and repair first. It bothers me to throw things aways that could be repaired but getting a new one can save a lot of frustration.

Have you found any brand/supplier of non OEM carbs that you have had luck with? I know tear down and clean does not always work.

WEll I watched a couple U tube videos and took the carb off and cleaned as much as I could find that could be removed. The motor is a 2022 model and the main nozzle is fixed, but was able to run a copper wire through it. All was clean inside but sprayed the H out of it. Will be in an area tomorrow that sells true fuel at the pump and will get a couple gallons, treat it, fill it up and hope for a miracle. If this does not fix it I may opt for a ultrasonic cleaner. This motor is  Merc 5 hp Sailpower with less that 10 hours, has some value when running right. New carb is $320, ouch!

OH HAPPY DAYS!!! It runs great now. It took 8-10 pulls to fill fuel system even after letting it set for 20 min. I have a much better feeling about these small late model 2017-2025 Merc/Tohatsu motors now that I have removed and cleaned the carb. Don't be afraid, many u tube vids step you through it. Plus no adjusting, all pre set once put back together. It was a 30 min max job. Thanks to all how added suggestions. And yes my next move will be to electric, my shoulder will not take to much more abuse. Will launch in the next couple weeks, its been a long winter!

[Quantico Frank]

Great outcome! Pure gas for me too from now on with Sea Foam. I have the world's smallest Suzuki I bought about three years ago, and I hope it's as maintenance-friendly as yours is, but I certainly hope I can avoid carburetor issues in the future.

[eaglecreeksailor22]

Great outcome! Pure gas for me too from now on with Sea Foam. I have the world's smallest Suzuki I bought about three years ago, and I hope it's as maintenance-friendly as yours is, but I certainly hope I can avoid carburetor issues in the future.

I also have a 2.5hp Suzuki I kept when I sold my P165. I bought the Suzuki new and broke it in per owners manual in a test tank and it has never failed to start on the second pull. Probably keep it as a spare. I did use it on the P21 last fall due to the 5hp Merc not running well and wanted to sail the new to me 21 a few times before winter. I only have about 1/4 mile cove from my dock to open water so the 2.5 did ok and will push a 21 at 1/2 throttle well above no wake speed.

I always run the carb dry at end of the day, never knowing when I will be back for sure. It has been a long snowy winter here in central Indiana and I need some time on the water real bad, will launch as soon as ice out, hopefully in a couple weeks. At 79 and pretty good health never know when all that changes, so I will play hard every day I can. Take care all.

[Quantico Frank]

I also have a 2.5hp Suzuki I kept when I sold my P165. I bought the Suzuki new and broke it in per owners manual in a test tank and it has never failed to start on the second pull. Probably keep it as a spare. I did use it on the P21 last fall due to the 5hp Merc not running well and wanted to sail the new to me 21 a few times before winter. I only have about 1/4 mile cove from my dock to open water so the 2.5 did ok and will push a 21 at 1/2 throttle well above no wake speed.

I always run the carb dry at end of the day, never knowing when I will be back for sure. It has been a long snowy winter here in central Indiana and I need some time on the water real bad, will launch as soon as ice out, hopefully in a couple weeks. At 79 and pretty good health never know when all that changes, so I will play hard every day I can. Take care all.

Yeah, I do love that Suzuki, and at 70, myself, I certainly agree with your last statement!

[eaglecreeksailor22]

Usually there are a couple of jets. They have tiny holes and to clean them out you'll want a strand of copper wire about the same diameter as the holes. Copper is recommended because it's soft and won't damage the holes.

Removing the idle air jet to clean it means you'll have to readjust it when you put it back in. That can be kind of a black art.

You'll also want to make sure the inside of the bowl is shiny clean.

I've had mixed results with carb cleaning. Sometimes my small engines ran like new afterwards and other times there have still been problems.

Replacement carbs can often be pretty inexpensive if you look around. It won't hurt to try and repair first. It bothers me to throw things aways that could be repaired but getting a new one can save a lot of frustration.

Have you found any brand/supplier of non OEM carbs that you have had luck with? I know tear down and clean does not always work.

WEll I watched a couple U tube videos and took the carb off and cleaned as much as I could find that could be removed. The motor is a 2022 model and the main nozzle is fixed, but was able to run a copper wire through it. All was clean inside but sprayed the H out of it. Will be in an area tomorrow that sells true fuel at the pump and will get a couple gallons, treat it, fill it up and hope for a miracle. If this does not fix it I may opt for a ultrasonic cleaner. This motor is  Merc 5 hp Sailpower with less that 10 hours, has some value when running right. New carb is $320, ouch!

In one of the videos it mentioned using the external tank if an option. The person suggested that many of the extra pulls on the starter rope is needed to prime a dry fuel system, and said a couple squeezes on the in line bulb with a tank is much easier. Makes sense, I may quit running my carb dry during season now that I know how to tear down and clean the carb. I am running non ethanol and stabilizer/conditioner from Mercury. My shoulder would appreciate a 2 pull start. Your thoughts please?