Re-Bedding Jib Tracks

[DBthal]

I just finished re-bedding the port jib track on my P-165 to fix a leak. Hopefully this posting will make it easier for the next person doing a similar DIY repair.

* After removing the jib track and hardware, I redrilled the holes oversized and filled them with thickened G-Flex epoxy. This prevents any water from getting between the laminate and also forms a plug that resists crushing when the nuts/bolts are replaced & tightened.

* I drilled holes in the epoxy plugs to mount the jib track with stainless steel #10-24 1" flat head phillips machine screws, fender washers, #10 low profile nyloc nuts, and #10 screw covers from McMaster Carr. The low profile nuts are important to allow the screw caps to be applied later. You cannot view this attachment. You cannot view this attachment.

* I re-bedded the track using Pettit ANCHORTECH® UV Resistant Adhesive Sealant because I had some leftover.  3M 4200, Sika 291 or others would work too. Don't use 3M 5200 (permanent adhesive that is too strong for this application).

* Once the track was tightened and the sealant cured, I trimmed any bolt length extending past the nut with an oscillating multi-tool and metal blade.
You cannot view this attachment. This provides the clearance to allow the black plastic covers to be snapped on. You cannot view this attachment.

The repair turned out well and should be good for many years.

Dan
 

[Straander]

Damn I didnt know it was possible to recreate the factory look.
Since I've added 3 different cleats to my cabin top, I could definitely benefit from all that hardware you used.

I had thought that the oversized hole filled with epoxy trick wasnt so necessary with teh P165 cabin since it isnt balsa-cored. I just use a application of RTV on the bottom surface of each cleat to ensure it doesnt leak through in to the cabin. what is the danger of "Crushing"?

[tjspiel]

I just finished re-bedding the port jib track on my P-165 to fix a leak. Hopefully this posting will make it easier for the next person doing a similar DIY repair.

* After removing the jib track and hardware, I redrilled the holes oversized and filled them with thickened G-Flex epoxy. This prevents any water from getting between the laminate and also forms a plug that resists crushing when the nuts/bolts are replaced & tightened.

* I drilled holes in the epoxy plugs to mount the jib track with stainless steel #10-24 1" flat head phillips machine screws, fender washers, #10 low profile nyloc nuts, and #10 screw covers from McMaster Carr. The low profile nuts are important to allow the screw caps caps to be applied later. You cannot view this attachment. You cannot view this attachment.

* I re-bedded the track using Pettit ANCHORTECH® UV Resistant Adhesive Sealant because I had some leftover.  3M 4200, Sika 291 or others would work too. Don't use 3M 5200 (permanent adhesive that is too strong for this application).

* Once the track was tightened and the sealant cured, I trimmed any bolt length extending past the nut with an oscillating multi-tool and metal blade.
You cannot view this attachment. This provides the clearance to allow the black plastic covers to be snapped on. You cannot view this attachment.

The repair turned out well and should be good for many years.

Dan
 

Looks great Dan!

Did the covers go on pretty easy or did you struggle with them like I did? Now I'm wondering if I just have the wrong nuts.

[DBthal]

Posted by Straander  - Today at 04:36 PM

I had thought that the oversized hole filled with epoxy trick wasnt so necessary with teh P165 cabin since it isnt balsa-cored. I just use a application of RTV on the bottom surface of each cleat to ensure it doesnt leak through in to the cabin. what is the danger of "Crushing"?

Straander:

I live in a cold northern area. Even though there was no wood core below the jib track, it is best not to let water seep in between the laminate layers. In freezing conditions, the water or dampness can freeze and split the laminate. So, even though you don't need to worry about "rot" with a synthetic core, it is still best to epoxy seal openings. The "crush" issue can be avoided by not over tightening the nuts when installing hardware. 

I prefer to do the extra step of epoxy sealing deck perforations so I know it's good "forever".

Dan

[DBthal]

Posted by tjspiel  - Today at 04:59 PM
Did the covers go on pretty easy or did you struggle with them like I did? Now I'm wondering if I just have the wrong nuts.

Tom,

The covers were not easy, but doable.  I listened to your experience with the heat gun, and instead snuck my wife's hair dryer out to the boat. That warmed the plastic just enough without melting.

The technique that worked was to warm the cap, get one half seated on the "snap" washer, then I used the butt end of a screwdriver handle to run around the perimeter. That snapped them into place.

It would be  difficult to get the caps on with a regular nyloc nut. I've tried in the past.  You need the thinner nyloc nuts which is what Precision used at the factory.

Dan

[Quantico Frank]

Thanks, Dan, I'll save this one.

[Riggerdood]

Looks great Dan!

Just curious: did you countersink the bolt holes, and did you consider butyl tape for sealing?

[DBthal]

Posted by Riggerdood  - Apr 26, 2023, 10:44 PM
Looks great Dan!

Just curious: did you countersink the bolt holes, and did you consider butyl tape for sealing?

Tim,

Yes, I did slightly countersink the bolt holes. In recent years I have preferred butyl tape, but the deck had molded in non-skid below the tracks, so I thought a sealant caulk would fill those voids better.

Dan

[Riggerdood]

Ah, gotcha, thanks.