Should I replace my non-cutout actuator with one with a cutout?

[Pugetwatcher]

My 2009 Tuff Trailer (Model TSA4000) needs its actuator replaced. The OEM unit is a GDC model 60. It pulls a 23'Lockley-Newport and the combined weight of trailer/load is ~ 3500#.It interestingly has an electric lockout but only a four pin tow vehicle connector. The actuator is caput and needs replacement.

The tow vehicle has a dual port tow connector so I could replace the 4-pin with a 7-pin thus being able to pull the reverse signal off the tow vehicle and operate the lockout. However I'm unsure if the replacement is worth the trouble (cost and labor) in terms of how much use I'd have for it.

I'm looking for some feedback from users that have a strong opinion (one way or another.

Thanks, all.

[pgandw]

The only boat trailer with brakes I have ever had (and U-Haul trailers I have rented) had manual lever lockouts. In reality, I have never gone fast enough in reverse to actuate the surge brakes. This was for an ODay 25, which weighed 4500 lbs. Or could have been the brakes just never worked well, and I was too young and stupid to notice 40 years ago.

Fred W
Stuart (ODay) Mariner 19 - Sweet P

[Après Vous II]

You will find that the cutout is necessary the first time that you find yourself trying to back up a grade.