Almost-A-SCAMP Progress Report #2-12 . . . .

[Charles Brennan]

Don't know if every boat builder has one, but I seem to be blessed with a Boat-Subconscious.
That part of my normal subconscious, that stays awake all night long while I am sleeping, and worries about everything on the boat build, that I'm Doing Wrong. 
It's almost like, if you had a wife that was a boat builder! 
And is why I wake up in the middle of the night, a LOT. 
The most recent sleep interruption, was when I realized I had originally put the Bimini top tracks too close to the edge.of the deck and had not allowed for the extra width of the end trim caps, putting them too close to the rub rails.
Since I needed to re-drill the over-drilled and filled mounting holes on the gun whales anyway, figured I'd put the rub rails in place temporarily, (to locate those holes) and THEN locate the Bimini tracks while the rails were in place.
That Pesky Boat-Conscious     had further pointed out that the original track position was not equidistant between the cabin and the transom (the rationale for having a track in the first place) and could probably benefit from a little shortening.
THAT'S better! 
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Those are dry-wall screws in the end trim caps, used for locating where to over-drill for the mounting screws.

Like so:
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Check the old screw hole with the "X"  to the right, that will need to get filled with an epoxy-dipped bamboo skewer.

While re-drilling the rub rail holes, I discovered a hole I had TOTALLY missed drilling the first time around and only noticed it, when I tried to put a screw through the rub rail!! 
DOHHHH!!!! 
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Nothing for it, but to over-drill it . . . . .

. . . . . .  and fill it.  Since I would need to have the rub rail re-mounted again to locate where to drill the hole, I'll worry about that when it's time to mount the rub rail, for real.
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BTW, looking at the pic time stamps, I realized it was 2 years ago to the day, that I was doing this up in Sheboygan, Wisconsin:
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The rear Bimini top eye strap needed a larger eye strap to accommodate both the re-entry boarding strap and the aft Bimini top strap, so a new over-drilled hole was required.
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And filled in and then re-drilled.
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And the eye straps for the forward Bimini top straps were done in the same manner.
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Guaranteed Boat Building, Part Six:
If We Don't Do It Right, We Do it OVER!! 
Previously, I had SCREWED UP!!!    And not allowed for the diameter of the oar lock pin when I first over-drilled and filled with epoxy, for the oar locks.
(Another insight, acquired in the middle of the night.) 
So I needed to over-drill to accommodate the oar lock pin and then re-fill with epoxy and finally re-drill for the correct pin diameter, but that posed a new problem:
(Brennan's Technical Dictum: "The Solution To Any Technical Problem, Creates a Brand New Technical Problem.")
I needed a drain channel, for any water that got into the oar lock mounts. If I just poured some epoxy in there, all my previous fabrication efforts would be for nothing.
After some thought, I wrapped a chopstick in packing tape and greased it with some plumber's faucet grease and jammed it in place, in the existing drain hole. 
Then I poured the epoxy, decanting it down the chopsticks just like they taught us how to do with glass rods, in chemistry class. 
After the epoxy was fully cured, I pulled the chopsticks out easily (Whew!)    and re-drilled the holes for the oar lock pins, that now have an epoxy sleeve all around them.
Best of all, my water drainage is still intact. 
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I also filled in the erroneous track holes.
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Decided that maybe, the poor boat didn't have NEARLY enough holes in it yet,    so I made another big one in the transom.
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Made an angled hole in a scrap of Teak for reinforcement, shown here, after the first coat of epoxy.
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And after a few more coats of epoxy, glued it in place.
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And then filled in the screw mounting holes with thickened epoxy, since I had some left over, anyway.
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All done, to hold the base plate.
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I mean, doesn't EVERY 12-foot dinghy have a stern mounted flag staff, to proudly fly the National Ensign?!? 
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I can already hear the nay-sayers,    warning that one sweep of the boom, will break it off.
Not so. 
It is one inch lower than the Bimini top, so if the boom clears the Bimini top, it will also clear the flag staff.
That's the (praying fervently!)    Working Theory, anyway.

In my (endless!)    inventory of boat holes, I discovered I needed four more, for the turning block for the center board.
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And filled in and sanded.
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The center hole is copper-sleeved for the center board up haul line.

Went around the boat about three more times and finally discovered, that there was nowhere else I wanted to fill and subsequently sand a divot, drill a hole in something, or to sand down something rough, found by touch instead of by eye.
Time to vacuum and wipe down the ENTIRE BOAT with alcohol!! 
How to turn a clean white rag from this:
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To this, in about ten minutes: 
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Actually, one of four rags I used to wipe down the whole boat, inside and out.

FINALLY!!    Ready for the first primer coat.
This project has violently disabused me, of ANY notion that I might be a careful and neat painter,    so I placed rags in all the open lockers; hopefully, to deflect or absorb any errant paint drips.
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Hedge my bets, anywhere I can.
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Can't believe there's nothing else left, to sand or epoxy!! 
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I think the boat's ready for paint!! 
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I get Oak leaves and dust in the boat nearly every single day and didn't want to have to clean it out and wipe it down again, just prior to painting; although that's exactly what I'll have to do, between every coat of paint.
So I dug out the boat cover I bought last summer and installed it.
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It will eventually be much lower in the front . . . .
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 . . . . . And much higher in the back when finally finished, but not bad for a first fitting attempt.
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Now all I have to do, is to tough out a few more pesky cold fronts and then I can begin painting! 
Or, so I thought. 
Turned out, the next day the Weather Weasels got it horribly wrong,    (in my favor for a change!) and the temp, time and humidity, was all right in the perfect sweet spot for Petit EZ-Prime.
I hurriedly got all my paint stuff together and cracked open the can of primer.
DOHHHHH!!! 
Mostly solidified and far less paint    than I remember leaving in the can; estimated at roughly half of what I needed.
Called the Crystal River West Marine and got an over-the-phone Pinky-Swear, that they had a can on the shelf and would hold it for me, until I got there, 90 minutes later.
They were as good as their word and now I have plenty for two coats, but I TOTALLY missed that great weather window. 
And the Weather Weasel Prognostications are firmly back on their gloomy track, again. 
As I get closer to completion, I am more and more loathe to shortcut anything and risk ruining two years of effort. 
After all, I am at best, a reluctant boat builder.
I'm more like a sailor marooned on a remote island, whose long-time and beloved vessel was shipwrecked on the reef of Old Age, and is trying desperately to make a new boat, to get off that reef. 
And so it goes.

Charles Brennan

[Doug SC]

Look on the bright side. Lloyd who built my Navigator took 10 years. You are getting close to sailing off that island.

[Travis Chapman]

Always amazing to see the progress. I'm curious: how has your drill/overfill/sand/redrill routine changed over the course of the build? I tend to use 1/4-20 hardware whenever I can because it's easily available, I have a ton of excess, and mostly sufficient strength for most hardware on the Windrose. I've got my favorite drill, bit, etc onboard for those needs and they are well-loved. Are they as well loved after so many holes?

On the subject of a bazillion holes, I found this helpful from my devotions this week (adaptable to any persuasion everyone may have):
"Because children have abounding vitality, because they are in spirit fierce and free, therefore they want things repeated and unchanged. They always say, "Do it again"; and the grown-up person does it again until he is nearly dead. For grown-up people are not strong enough to exult in monotony. But perhaps God is strong enough to exult in monotony. It is possible that God says every morning, "Do it again" to the sun; and every evening, "Do it again" to the moon. It may not be automatic necessity that makes all daisies alike; it may be that God makes every daisy separately, but has never got tired of making them. It may be that He has the eternal appetite of infancy; for we have sinned and grown old, and our Father is younger than we." - Chesterton

[Captain Kidd]

Happy birthday to the two year old boat builder! 

I'd be curious to know how many holes you've drilled and filled.

Took me 20 months to build Disciple Ship, a much simpler build than Urchin. You're doing well!

[Frank B.]

Charles, you need to embrace the epiphanies as they occur, those subconscious guides.  I could not get through a project without them.  The sleep forces me to release my tightly held, treasured assumptions and see the light.

My favorite example was reinstalling the appliances at the end of the hurricane Michael rebuild.  I put the range in and turned it on for test and the burners would work fine but the lights and control panel would not.  Immediately jumped to the conclusion the range was defective and was pouting about having to run it down.  Late so I went to bed. woke up at about one AM with an epiphany, the range is fine, there is an open neutral some place else. Sure enough, pulled it out, looked at the outlet and found that it was probably a Monday morning, or Friday afternoon install.  Original installer left the neutral too short and it had been, for twenty years, just ever so barely clamped in the terminal. All the jostling from the hurricane and pulling and replacing the range had pulled it loose.  So 220 was a go, 110 was a no.

That happens often enough that now I just go to bed and wait for guidance. Don't let assumptions get in the way of the truth.

BTW you are still being very effective at preventing me from starting another boat build.  Keep up the good work.  

[Charles Brennan]

Dale, Wow!! How Brave are YOU?!?!?!?? 
You ask a guy who spent a lifetime around Engineers, a question like THAT without defining your terms?!? 

I'd be curious to know how many holes you've drilled and filled.

OK!  Here ya go!!
A) Screws left in place: (Part of structure.)
16 Skegs-to-hull.
18 Stainless steel skeg runner screws.
2 Bow chock rub rail screws.
13 Cockpit floor hinge screws.
16 Cabin side cleats screws.
4 Deck reinforcement screws.
3 Celtic Trinity knot screws.
6 Lazarette screws.
3 Flag staff mount.
6 Electrical panel.
1 Compass mount box
8 Compass plate and compass
4 Bimini track
4 Center board turning block
2 Center board pad eye.
6 Nav light mounting screws.
Total: 112 Screws

B) Screws/Bolts/Nuts that require a through-hole:
36 For 9) 6-inch cleats.
8 Stainless steel rub rail screws.
8 BH #4 pad eyes.
4 Anchor rode Clam cleats.
12 Dead light screws.
26 Rub rail screws.
40 seat and floor hatches.
24 Cabin hatches.
13 Cockpit floor hinge screws. (Other side of hinge.)
2 Bow chock.
2 Bow eye.
20 Eye strap screws.
8 Rod holder mount screws.
4 Oar lock mount screws
8 Hand rail bolts.
4 Pintle bolts.
8 Gudgeon bolts.
4 Ladder mount bolts.
4 Ladder clip screws.
2 Down haul cam cleat screws.
4 Motor mount to transom bolts.
4 Motor mounting plate bolts.
4 Cabin sides rub rail holes.
Total: 249 screws

C) Holes for installed bronze bushings:
1 Centerboard  cap Kwik-pin lock-down hole
1 Center board turning block hole.
2 Centerboard pivot hole.
2 Bulkhead centerboard mount holes.
1 Tiller pilot hole.
2 Mainsheet traveler holes.
4 Rudder pivot holes.
2 Rudder head tiller holes.
2 Tiller mount holes. (On tiller.)
Total: 17 holes.

D) General purpose holes:
1 Centerboard pennant retrieval tail.
1 Rudder up haul hole.
1 Rudder down haul hole.
1 Mast step drain hole.
2 Nav light holes.
10 Wiring access holes. (Port and Starboard.)
6 1½" holes for oar mounts behind coaming.
2 1¼" holes with slots for boat hook mount inside port bench hatch.
Total: 24 holes.

E) Holes used for clamping pieces of plywood and subsequently filled:
No real idea.
I have used 3 packs of 100 bamboo skewers and still have a little less than 50 left, so the closest I could get is >250 holes that were filled.
Which would give us in the range of AT LEAST 653 holes made in this poor, hapless, hull!! 
(Can ya tell it's raining, and I'm bored?!?) 

Hope this clarifies,
Charles Brennan

[Charles Brennan]

Travis, Thank you for your kind words. Your query:

I'm curious: how has your drill/overfill/sand/redrill routine changed over the course of the build?

Hasn't changed, so much as evolved, as I got more experience; ESPECIALLY on the things I tried, that didn't work! 
Had screaming fits with taping the bottoms of things and getting epoxy leaks, all over everywhere. 
Got better at that and also learned to use Marine Tex type epoxy fillers when filling vertical holes, and thickened epoxy when horizontal, and un-thickened epoxy where I needed to be able to see into the hole.
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After the decks went on and I no longer had the luxury of a horizontal surface, I also used epoxy fillers, which is why you will sometimes see a filled epoxy hole that used filler, right next to one that use un-thickened epoxy.
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As much as possible, I have used a fastener radius as a guide, for an epoxy wall thickness.
e.g. a ¼-20 fastener gets over-drilled to ½" for ⅛" epoxy "walls; a 10-24 fastener gets over-drilled to ⅜", etc.

As I got more experience with more tools, I transitioned from using a Japanese pull saw to cut bamboo skewers flush:
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To using a multi-tool with a flush cutting blade; made for smoother cuts that required less sanding.

Hope this clarifies,
Charles Brennan

[Charles Brennan]

Frank,

BTW you are still being very effective at preventing me from starting another boat build.  Keep up the good work.  

Always brings a smile to my face!!  <---- That one!!

Thanks,
Charles Brennan

[Riley Smith]

CB, one thing I wish I had done differently is to use oak for the rub rail. I used fir and my Spidey sense tells me all the time oak would have been better.

[Charles Brennan]

Riley, I intend to use oiled Mahogany on the rub rails. I recognize that it is softer than Oak, but figure it won't splinter as easily as Oak, either.
I've SEEN how I dock!! 

Charles Brennan

[Captain Kidd]

I used what I had for my rub rails - and that was some free cedar that I came into. It's soft and already has one pretty good "dent" in it, but that's ok by me. A little spray urethane touch-up and most will never see it.

[Krusen]

About night time rethinking problems, but starting with a day time one.

Another Norman where I worked was cutting the grass on Saturday afternoon, stopped in the middle of the front yard, went in the house, and told his wife that he had figured out what was wrong on a complex pre solid state computer at work.  Finish cutting the grass, I left the mower running.  I should have it fixed in about 3 hours, I will call when I leave, so you can have supper on the table when I get home.

Management never questioned if he worked overtime without asking, nor the number of hours he reported.

In the middle of the night, my wife often woke me for squirming and flopping in bed, and I explained that I was trying to analyze the test results to determine just which component had failed in similar equipment.  200 to 300 electric relays, each with 3 to 24 contacts, some slow pickup, others slow drop out, and some dirt on the pole faces could change the timing on any of them.

Sometimes, those nighttime efforts did indeed provide the insight, and next day, an easy repair.

Other times I recognized circular logic patterns taking place, got up and walked a bit, and returned to decent sleep.