Almost-A-SCAMP Progress Report #3-3D . . . .

[Charles Brennan]

OUTFITTING!!    (AKA: The "Fun Stuff!") 
Added some strips of EVA foam to the bottom of the filler boards locker, to minimize noise/rattling of the boards, while under way.
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Then installed the filler boards.  Fit good! 
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Check the notch in the lid, at the upper left.  More obvious now, as to why that notch was first put in the lid, 18 months ago. 

The forward part of the cabin (BH1 to BH2) holds the bulky, but light stuff like blankets and pillows, to help keep weight out of the ends of the hull.
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On the main cabin starboard side, (BH2 to BH3) is the camping electric fan (under the towels) and the inverter.

To port, (BH2 to BH3) is all the kinds of glop that needs to be kept on a shelf, so it doesn't all roll around loose, in the bottom of the locker. 
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And some more towels.

Wonder where that idea came from? 
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Got the two piece oars loaded in behind the coamings.
The overlap on the Armstrong hatch isn't really an issue, since the hatch lifts up under the oar blade, easily.
Especially, after I learned that the little embossed diamonds on the hatch, denoted the position of the arms!! 
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Wired the trolling motor connector and mounted the motor.
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The next day, the weather was perfect!! 
For staying inside the house all day,    eye splicing, whipping, and working on lines, that is. It was COLD!! 
At left, is a 25 foot anchor line to attach to what is commonly called a "lunch hook", but which I use more like an emergency parking brake.
Coming into the dock from down wind, a little hot and the motor suddenly stalls?!?    Use the "parking brake"!! 
The two coils at the bottom, are "anchor painters".
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Those two lines at top, are "anchor painter retrievers".

With the remainder of my original 600' spool of line, I made some fender lines.
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Got those two fenders at a thrift store, both of them, for 5 bucks. 

The "anchor painters" are run from the bow cleat, forward through the bow's closed chock and are then led back aft, to a clam cleat at the stern where the end is secured.
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The aft end of the "anchor painter".
To deploy an anchor from the cockpit, I tie that end on to the eye loop of the anchor rode.
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Wonder where that idea came from? 
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Here's an "anchor painter retriever". It's a snatch block eye spliced to a line.
It's the final step after the anchor painter is tied to the anchor rode.
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After it is snapped in place, the anchor and rode is deployed over the side and the snatch block line end, is placed in the clam cleat, where the end of the anchor painter used to be.
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When it's time to retrieve the anchor, I simply pull on the lines with the snatch blocks to pull the anchor painter back to the stern of the boat, so I can continue retrieving the anchor rode.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that the snatch block line is also useful as a "bridle" for the bow/wind angle by simply pulling it in a little and cleating it down.
This way, all anchor deploying and retrieving, happens solely from the cockpit and there's never any need to go up forward. (Especially, in rougher seas!) 
This is why I wasn't bothered at not being able easily, to go up on the fore deck of the SCAMP.  (A fairly common criticism.)
Early on, on Urchin, I simply used an extra bow line's eye around the rode to retrieve the anchor line, enduring the line friction being added to the additional weight/effort of wind and current. 
As I've gotten older,    I've needed a snatch block, more and more often; so it's not even an option, any more.

For all my general-purpose anchoring, the Lewmar Claw at lower left and Danforth at lower right, along with the beach stake and 100 foot rode (center), covers the vast majority of my anchoring requirements.
The anchors and chains are stowed as far forward as possible, to keep weight out of the ends of the hull.
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Notice all the anchors rest on the rodes, to minimize clanking in the lazarette locker, while under way. 

Right against the stern, is the lighter stuff like the anchor painter retrievers, sea anchor, and "parking brake"
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Got that anchor (upper right) at a flea market, for $5 bucks.     After seeing this pic, realized I need to clean it up with some CLR. 

I used to use a similar anchor that rested across the motor mount on Urchin.  It was cleated on the opposite side of the transom, from the motor.
To deploy it (in a hurry!),    I simply lifted it off the mount and dropped it in; since it was cleated from the other side, it fell out away from the motor, the rudder, etc.
I will be doing the same thing on the Irish Pennant.
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This view shows how it clears anything of importance, like the motor speed control, tiller, etc.
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The advantage to this, is that it is stored outside the hull, so it can't tangle on something in the cockpit (at an inopportune moment!)    and it is always ready to be deployed, instantly.
Lift. Drop. Done. 

I've gotten a LOT of stuff for $5 bucks, here and there, over the past 2 years! 
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My wife joked that maybe I should have named this boat: The Abraham Lincoln!! 

Getting ready to install the batteries and remembered a detail I hadn't gotten to, yet.
Sealing where the battery cables go into the cabin, to minimize any flooding on one compartment, from reaching another compartment.
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With that chore out of the way, I rigged up the nylon strap that holds the batteries in place and then connected the Anderson connectors.
(Yeah, I played with all the switches!!) 
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You can just see the strap buckle, left of the port battery.

Starboard battery.
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Still plenty of space for gear! 

Last weekend when I tried topping off the ballast tank with a small battery-powered transfer pump, the hose was way too short and I had to stick the end into another hose, to reach to the ballast tank.
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I had some surplus CPAP hoses, that were replaced as part of the maintenance schedule on my CPAP machine and I liked that the built-in heater wire, keeps the hose from kinking.
So I added one hose to the transfer pump.
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And the other hose, to a bilge pump I had left over from a failed live-bait, kayak fishing experiment.
Added a long enough power wire, so that I can place the pump anywhere in the boat and still pump water over the side.

Starboard forward hatch has small folding shovel, spare ballast tank cover and plug, transfer pump, 12VDC bilge pump, and main sheet cam cleat/block.
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On the port forward hatch are harnesses/tethers, foulies, and spare Type-V PFD.
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While every day exposes dozens of Brand New Details,    that come bubbling up to the surface; what I'm mostly down to, is all the stuff that requires a sewing machine.
(Bimini top, re-entry straps, cushions, veranda privacy curtain, tent, etc.)
Which I have. (A nice one, a Sailrite LS-1.)
If I can ever get over to it, in the swamped-out chaos, that used to be my garage. 
Closer . . . . . .  closer . . . . . .  closer . . . . . 

Charles Brennan

[Spot]

Outstanding!
When is the first meet?

[Charles Brennan]

Spot, Shooting (very hard!!)    for the Cedar Key Small Boat Meet, from May 1st - 3rd, quickly followed by participating  in the FL 120, May 14th - 17th.

I'm going to Cedar Key, even if I have to ROW all the way to Atsena Otie Key!! 
(The Key that every one takes their small boats to.)
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Look closely at this pic from 2017 and you'll see a SCAMP, mixed in there. 

Hope this clarifies,
Charles Brennan

[Captain Kidd]

That's a lot of "bubbling"!

I get more dizzy with each of your posts!