Things you're happy with, things you're not

[Straander]

Tom,

Here's the bungie install on the bottom of my boom. I'm still playing with how tight or slack the bungie should be.  Seems better when slightly loose.
Dan

i really need to make this upgrade :9. Is that a single length of bungie, or multiple lengths?

[Quantico Frank]

Frank,

The bottom of the 7' conduit legs have eye bolts. I found simple cord worked better for the attachments to the pad eyes on deck than a carabiner or quick link. The half door hinge is wrapped in duct tape so it doesn't scratch the mast track.

Dan

Dan, I'm going to make one of these A-frames for my P165– I really like the concept. Have to say I'm getting better and better at the Ron Dietel method of raising and lowering manually, but I do like the extra stability that your system provides. I have two questions: 1) did you install pad eyes on the gunwale to tie the bottom of the legs of the A-frame to, or are you using something that already exists? 2)Where did you find those rubber-looking feet for the conduit?

Thanks for taking pictures of all of your work for future reference— I'm going to start doing that.

Frank

[DBthal]

 Dan, I'm going to make one of these A-frames for my P165– I really like the concept. Have to say I'm getting better and better at the Ron Dietel method of raising and lowering manually, but I do like the extra stability that your system provides. I have two questions: 1) did you install pad eyes on the gunwale to tie the bottom of the legs of the A-frame to, or are you using something that already exists? 2)Where did you find those rubber-looking feet for the conduit?

Frank [/quote]

Deck Pad eyes - I added some cast SS pad eyes on deck near the rails. They are in line with the mast tabernacle. I use them to connect a conduit A frame when raising / lowering the mast (usually done solo). This stops the side to side mast sway.  The eyes are also a good place to attach fenders.

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The rubber feet can be found at ACE Hardware or any big box diy store. 

[DBthal]

Tom,

Here's the bungie install on the bottom of my boom. I'm still playing with how tight or slack the bungie should be.  Seems better when slightly loose.
Dan

i really need to make this upgrade :9. Is that a single length of bungie, or multiple lengths?

It is a single length of bungie.  It's best to make the bungie a bit long and then adjust to the tightness you like for securing the sail.

[tjspiel]

-Miscellaneous: swiveling jibsheet blocks. AC shorepower outlet. Cunningham replace downhaul. outhaul and reefing line horn cleats replaced with clam cleats.

Precision must have bought a huge supply of horn cleats that they were determined to use up before changing to  something easier to use but still inexpensive. I still want to change out mine but haven't got to it yet.

Changing to swiveling jib sheet blocks is something I've done too and also scratch my head a little bit as to why they weren't stock. The old ones would get hung up in weird angles.

[tjspiel]

I was reminded of another "miss" last night when working on the boat.

Swim ladder Steps

Seemed like a good idea. The thin stock rungs are not comfortable on the feet. I got them from Defender and they weren't expensive.

The idea is pretty simple. Since you alternate feet when climbing a ladder, you really only need steps on alternating sides.

These are held in place by clamps and the cutout pushed against the vertical tubing keeps them from rotating.

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And that design worked great, - for exactly one of the steps.

The bottom rung curves into the vertical tube so I had to modify that step to work. It sort of does.

The second from the top has the tubes that rest against the boat extending from it. So that also required modification.

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And the rotating top rung wasn't workable at all.

Finally, like all tubing on the P18, it's diameter is thinner than standard so required some shimming.


The nail in the coffin for this upgrade?  In spite of doing some pre-installation testing, I actually tend to step with my left foot first on this ladder which puts all of the steps on the wrong side.

What I should have done

The old Precision Owners website had a tip to get steps from Catalina direct. They have several widths with options for either bolting or bonding. Prices are pretty good too.

[Brian N.]

I really have not done any mods to speak of. I added cleats midship in the spot Dan added pad-eyes. They are convenient for fenders. My p165 did come with jib tracks and swivel blocks, and I would highly recommend adding them to older models with fixed blocks. 

[Riggerdood]

Tom, I got Rum Line's ladder treads here, and have been very happy with them. The design solves most of the issues you have with the Defender ones.

https://www.aproposmarine.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50

[Straander]

I really have not done any mods to speak of. I added cleats midship in the spot Dan added pad-eyes. They are convenient for fenders. My p165 did come with jib tracks and swivel blocks, and I would highly recommend adding them to older models with fixed blocks. 

I installed new horn cleats in that spot too. Always finding I need more spots to hang fenders to tie docklines to, especially in docks I have to use 4-point tie-offs

[DBthal]

I really have not done any mods to speak of. I added cleats midship in the spot Dan added pad-eyes. They are convenient for fenders. My p165 did come with jib tracks and swivel blocks, and I would highly recommend adding them to older models with fixed blocks. 

I installed new horn cleats in that spot too. Always finding I need more spots to hang fenders to tie docklines to, especially in docks I have to use 4-point tie-offs

The horn cleats will work well for connecting a mast raising A frame.

Dan

[Straander]

The horn cleats will work well for connecting a mast raising A frame.
Dan

I dont think I need to add baby stays. I honestly have no issue at all raising the mast solo.
The one little trick that helps is that the boat always ends up on the trailer cocked a little bit to one side. I always make sure to only release the shroud lever on the lower side, that way the mast will be partially hanging from the shroud on the higher side and help guide it up once I'm past halfway.

[Quantico Frank]

Deck Pad eyes - I added some cast SS pad eyes on deck near the rails. They are in line with the mast tabernacle. I use them to connect a conduit A frame when raising / lowering the mast (usually done solo). This stops the side to side mast sway.  The eyes are also a good place to attach fenders.

The rubber feet can be found at ACE Hardware or any big box diy store.

Dan, I'm going to do this during the offseason this year. These are also called baby stays?

Frank

[DBthal]

Dan, I'm going to do this during the offseason this year. These are also called baby stays?

Frank

Frank,

Probably a better term is a sliding A frame. You can always send me a PM if you have questions when you get around to making it.

I think Tim uses something similar with one leg rather than two.

Dan

[Riggerdood]

Yes, it's a wishbone setup, with a single, rigid baby stay on one side. Made a vid a while back to show how it works:

https://youtu.be/YGmMEjHv_vA

[Quantico Frank]

Thanks, Dan and Tim! I already have the extra line running from the masthead to a block at the bow and back to a cleat on the top of the cabin which will do much of what Tim's rig does in the video. The A-frame will allow me to take one hand off the mast to use the line. Good off-season project, and cleats in those two locations abeam the mast will also be incredibly handy for locating fenders as well.