Bearings

[Riggerdood]

The kind on your axle, not the kind used in navigation. Today I put new ones on my trailer (it's finally starting to cool down in the evenings here!), in preparation for a rather long tow to Channel Islands Harbor next weekend. I intend to make this a yearly part of my overall PM plan, no different than carb cleaning, impeller replacement, etc. on the outboards. The first set of new bearings I put on this trailer after I bought the boat lasted 5 years, before one gave up the ghost while at highway speed. Luckily, a passing trucker was honking and pointing like crazy, and I was able to get over to the side of the road and into an apron area where I had plenty of room to work. What was also lucky was that the spindle was not damaged. However, there was no luck at all in the fact that I had a spare pre-greased hub/bearing assembly, and the tools to install it, with me. That's been the case ever since I started to trailer boats.

That was 3 years ago, and I've decided I'm not going to push my luck beyond much more than a year from now on. I do not like surprises towing at 60 mph!

I get the pre-greased hubs from Trailer Depot:

https://www.trailerdepot.com/products/galvanized-trailer-hub-kit-1-1-16-x-1-3-8-fully-greased.html

To me, this is the best value in doing this job, because the hubs themselves are a very small part of the cost (cast, with minimal machining), and you get to start over with new studs, lug nuts, etc. And they are very easy to install.

First order of business was to get the lug nuts off. The last time they were off was 2-1/2 years ago when I put on new tires, and they were pretty corroded. Even a pretty long breaker bar couldn't budge a couple, and I had to put a torch to 'em. Another reason to do this more often, and to just replace the whole hub assembly when doing so.

Got the wheels off, then examined the condition of the existing hub/bearing assemblies. There was no looseness or grinding when turning them, but the grease looked pretty much used up. Pulled the cotter pins, castle nuts and washers, and pulled the old ones off. The condition of the bearings was pretty good, but there were definitely signs of wear. Cleaned all the grease off the spindles and inspected them. There was some burnishing, but no pitting, grooves, or other signs of damage. Cleaned 'em up with some very fine grit sandpaper, and they were shiny and good to go.

The rest is pretty easy: place the new assembly onto the spindle, being careful not to knock the outer bearing out of the hub. On goes the washer and castle nut, tighten the latter until there is no play but the hub turns freely, and one of the slots in the castle nut lines up with the cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin and end cap – gotta line that thing up just right then give it a good whack with a rubber mallet - put on the wheel and new lug nuts, give the tire a final spin and wiggle test, and done!

[DBthal]

A great reminder that preventing trailer problems is WAY easier than dealing with a failure on the side of the road.

Thanks Tim!

[Riggerdood]

No prob Dan, and you got that right for sure. Just figured we can all use a good reminder once in a while.

[Quantico Frank]

Great reminder, Tim. Just ordered my spare hub, and will def grease those lugs when I get the trailer back in the driveway.

[Wayne Howard]

There is a procedure for tightening the castle and lug nuts and I'm sure Charles Brennan will post it again. After all, he's seen (been in) every trailer incident you can think of. He even wrote a song about one incident. "You picked a fine time to leave me, Loose Wheel"

[Charles Brennan]

Here ya go!

This is an excerpt from a previous post.
The original post link is here:
https://trailersailor.com/forum/index.php?topic=796.msg4864#msg4864

The next thing that causes trailer hub problems is reproducible hub tightness.
This is unfortunately, prone to folk-lore and superstition. 

Side-to-side play:
How much? None? ¼-inch? ¼-inch forward and back, or ¼-inch in total? 
Hub nut tightness:
The shade tree mechanic formula is "finger tight".
"Finger tight" for who?  King Kong, or Edgar Milquetoast? 
"Finger tight" when you have the flu, or "finger tight" when you've just eaten your Wheaties?
Way too subjective for me.

Fortunately, this actually is reproducible and independent of your strength, versus your neighbor's strength. 
1) Install all bearing races inner and outer.
2) Grease all bearings.
3) Install the the inner bearing and the inner seal on the inside of the hub and then place the hub onto the axle.
4) Install the outer bearing, outer washer, and hub castle nut.
5) Torque the hub nut clockwise to around 100 ft/lb.  The wheel should not be able to be turned.
The reason for doing this is to seat the races and bearings, so no further movement inside the hub is possible.
6)  Back the hub nut off until loosened.  You may have to rock the wheel to accomplish this.
7) Torque the hub nut to exactly 50 ft/lb.  (Wheel is again stuck shut.)
8 ) Using the end of your torque wrench as a reference, back the hub castle nut off counterclockwise EXACTLY 90º PLUS counter-clockwise to the next open notch on the hub castle nut, if not already lined up.
9) Install cotter pin through castle hub nut spindle holes.
10) Check for play.  You will find it where all the shade tree mechanics say it should be: "A little loose, but not too loose."
11) Install Bearing Buddies and grease zerk fitting.

Hope this helps,
Charles Brennan

[Riggerdood]

Great reminder, Tim. Just ordered my spare hub, and will def grease those lugs when I get the trailer back in the driveway.

I typically don't grease the lugs Frank, but have thought about doing so.

[Riggerdood]

There is a procedure for tightening the castle and lug nuts and I'm sure Charles Brennan will post it again. After all, he's seen (been in) every trailer incident you can think of. He even wrote a song about one incident. "You picked a fine time to leave me, Loose Wheel"

That song (or saying, really) was originally coined by Darrel Waltrip after a wheel came off his race car after a pit stop.

[Riggerdood]

That is a very comprehensive description of the process Charles, and thanks for re-posting it here. I was trying to give the somewhat abridged version. 

I do tighten the castle nut down until the hub won't turn, then back it off to the cotter pin hole. I guess I left that part out because with the pre-greased hub/bearing assemblies, I find that everything is already well seated inside the hub.

[Quantico Frank]

I typically don't grease the lugs Frank, but have thought about doing so.

These posts made me think about my most recent tire escapades over the past month and my "zealous" attempt to make sure there is no excess vibration getting to my trailer tires. I tightened the lug nuts with my pneumatic driver to who knows how many foot-lbs, and now I need get the trailer back in my driveway to make sure they're torqued to spec: https://magictilt.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/MGT-0224-022-Trailer-Safety-Manual-Edits_Final-Digital.pdf p38.

An hour's web research has shown me that the issue of whether or not to "grease" them is hotly debated. It appears that using an anti-seize compound would be the way to go if you want to use anything at all. I'm not sure what to do— I have the beginnings of some corrosion on the studs.

[Riggerdood]

Yes, I think anti-seize would be best, but as you say, there are plenty of arguments for and against.

[Krusen]

Tapered roller bearing preload is essential for long life and reliability.

After replacing bearings, or re greasing them,, torque at least 50#, then turn the wheel to smooth the thin film of grease, back off to just loose, torque to 20#, and back off to the first castle slot.  If that causes free turning, retorque to 30#, and back off to the first castle slot.

The remining torque should be about 10#, and absolutely no motion in or out if you push/pull the top of the tire.

If there is any slack at all, when going around curves, the entire load on the rollers is on the very ends, overheating them and degrading the lubricant. With no slack, the load is a line from end to end of each roller.

I bought a used trailer in 1949, serviced it in that manner, loaded it to its rating, and pulled it from Louisville KY to Washington DC, and then used it until 1956.  No bearing problems, and regreased about every 3 years.

Second trailer, used, with a bass boat on it, flat tires, rusty wheels, and bearings.  Bought new wheels and tires, replaced the bearings and seals, used it for the bass boat, a sailing surfboard (Launched in salt water) and my Neptune 16.  Currently has the bass boat on it, launching into the Long Island Sound.  Over 2000 miles on it, no bearing problems, greased abut every 3 years.

Third trailer, Mac 22 on it, bearings in poor shape, replaced wheels, tires, bearings, and seals.  Over 2000 miles, no bearings replaced, just grease and seals.  No failures.

There should absolutely be no give or looseness with tapered bearings.

PS, I did all the bearing maintaining on my 60 Chevrolet, 1971 Ford, each went well over 100,000 miles with no bearing problems.


Some of my many other cars, and sons cars did have garage periodic lubrication, but most were done in our driveway.

I say again, there should absolutely be no give or looseness with tapered bearings.

[Quantico Frank]

The kind on your axle, not the kind used in navigation.

Reminds me of some funny Navy stuff. The old timers used to play games with the new kids when they first came on board. It was even better on an aircraft carrier with its maze of compartments, decks, and levels. It was routine to ask the new kid to go get a can of "relative bearing grease" or maybe a bucket of "prop wash." If you did it right, you coordinated with the people in the compartments you were sending him to to send him on to other compartments, and on and on until he finally caught on— now a much wiser sailor. Always a great photo op at the end.

[Riggerdood]

Or a left-handed screwdriver? 

[Quantico Frank]

Framing a house, you always need a big box of "toenails" too, lol. And a "skyjack" often comes in mighty handy.